Why Your Car Won’t Start — and What a Mobile Mechanic Checks First

It’s one of the worst feelings — you hop in your car, turn the key (or hit the button), and… nothing. No rumble. No click. Maybe just a flicker of lights or a weird noise that doesn’t sound good. Suddenly, your whole day’s on pause.

As a mobile mechanic serving Southeast Texas — from Beaumont to Vidor and everywhere in between — I’ve handled a lot of these “no-start” calls. Most of the time, it’s one of three main culprits: battery, starter, or alternator. But each one gives off different clues, if you know what to listen for.

Here’s how I break it down when I show up on-site — and how you might be able to tell what’s going on before you even call.

 1. Battery Trouble

The most common issue I see, hands down. Sometimes it’s just old, sometimes it’s drained, and sometimes the alternator isn’t charging it anymore (more on that next).

What you might notice:

• Lights and dashboard come on, but nothing happens when you turn the key

• Clicking sound when you try to start

• Complete silence if the battery’s totally dead

What I do first:

I always try to crank the engine myself. That initial response tells me a lot. If I turn the key and get a single click, or a series of rapid clicks, that’s often a sign the battery doesn’t have enough juice to turn the starter — either because it’s drained, old, or just not holding charge anymore.

If I hear absolutely nothing — no clicks, no dash lights, no movement — then we’re probably looking at a completely dead battery or even a blown fuse or bad connection. And if I get lights and power, but no engine crank at all, it could still be the battery — but I’ll start thinking alternator too, especially if you’ve been having electrical issues before this.

I don’t just guess though. I use a multimeter to test the battery’s voltage and run a load test if needed. I also check for things like corroded terminals or loose connections — stuff that can stop your car from starting even if the battery’s technically “good.”

2. Alternator Problems

This one likes to tag-team with your battery. A bad alternator will charge poorly or not at all, slowly killing the battery even if it was fine the day before.

What you might notice:

• Car died while driving and won’t restart

• Battery light flickered on before it quit

• Lights dimming or electronics acting weird before shut-off

What I check:

If the car starts, the first thing I do is test the alternator’s output using a multimeter. I look for the correct voltage range while the engine’s running — typically around 13.5 to 14.5 volts. If it’s running below that, it’s not charging properly.

If it’s way over that, it could be overcharging and cooking your battery. Either way, it’s no good.

I also check for signs of a failing alternator that aren’t electrical — like worn belts, whining noises, or even a burning smell from the engine bay. All of these point to an alternator issue that needs attention.

This is the kind of stuff that gets missed if someone just swaps in a battery and calls it good. When I show up, you’re getting a full system check — not guesswork.

3. Starter Issues

If the battery’s good and the alternator checks out, this is the next suspect. Starters can die without warning — sometimes slowly, sometimes all at once.

What you might notice:

• One loud clunk but no turnover

• Dash lights up but engine doesn’t budge

• You have to hit the key/button multiple times before it tries anything

What I listen for:

Sound is a big part of the diagnosis here. I’ll turn the key myself and pay attention to what the vehicle does — or doesn’t do. If I hear one loud click with no crank, that’s usually the starter solenoid engaging but not turning the engine. That’s a common sign the starter motor itself is toast.

Sometimes you’ll hear repeated clicking, which can point to a weak battery — but if I’ve already ruled out the battery and alternator, that could still mean the starter is drawing too much current or has an internal short. Other times, the engine might sound like it’s trying to crank but just won’t fire — which could point to a dragging or failing starter motor.

I also listen for complete silence. If you’ve got full dash power but the engine doesn’t even try to turn over, the starter could be completely dead — or there could be a wiring or ignition issue. The key here is knowing the difference between a battery issue, a relay issue, and a starter that’s just plain worn out.

That’s why listening is only the first step — I don’t just go by sound. I test voltage at the starter, check grounds, and verify the starter is even getting power. Sometimes it’s not the part — it’s the connection.

Real Talk: Every Job is a Little Different

I’ve been called out to restaurants, grocery store parking lots, drive-thru lines, and even public parks. No-start problems never happen at a “good” time — and never in a “convenient” place.

But here’s the deal: most of the time, I can fix the issue right there, on-site, no towing needed. I’ve even helped push customers’ cars to a safer or flatter spot just so I could get underneath and make it happen. We work with what we’ve got, wherever you’re stuck.

And if it’s something I can’t fix right there — like an issue that needs a lift or specialized equipment — I’ll tell you straight, walk you through your options, and make sure you’re not left wondering what’s next. No guessing, no shady advice. Just real solutions from someone who’s been under more hoods than he can count.

Final Word from the Wrench